Yes, I have become one of them. No longer a scrappy backpacker crashing in homestays or renting someone’s makeshift apartment-above-the-garage like I’ve done abroad in years past, I’ve now graduated to living in a legit 3-room, full-kitchen, hot-water-tub-and-shower, washing-machine/TV/VCR, expat-grade apartment on the ninth floor of a downtown apartment building six blocks from the Chisinau United Nations building where I work. I’m feeling conflicted about this, however, as this kind of superfluous spending contrasts so starkly (and almost embarrassingly) with the way most people here live. It's not at all that everyone around me is living in poverty – Chisinau is a city sprinkled with international clothing stores and Beemers on the streets – but these things aren't accessible to the vast majority of the Moldovan population. Cristina and her mom seem solidly upper-middle-class to me (and have a nice place themselves) and even they seem incredulous that I would unnecessarily spend so much money on myself here.
Here’s how I justify my $600/month pad to myself:
- I can afford it
- It makes me feel safe and comfortable
- I’m introducing my own money into the Moldovan economy in a legit, positive way
- If I had stayed in the
- Although two months in this apartment cost more than many people in this country see in a year, if they had the cash to rent it, they probably would, too. The rich Moldovans in my neighborhood probably aren’t so conflicted about living there.
- Although this does seem frivolous in the face of the poverty in
- Other expats at work are spending $1000/month – which somehow makes my $600/month feel more reasonable
But maybe the lady doth protest too much here – for all this rhetoric, it still stands that two months’ rent for this apartment is more than many Moldovans will see in a year. Does this make me a bad person, or a bad representative of my country? Am I being somehow icky and condescending to come pay for myself to live the good life here while working to try to make
Thoughts, please!
My bedroom, kitchen, living room, "study", and day/night views: (Don't worry – I'll post pix of something outside my apartment soon. I just need to take some first....)
5 comments:
You should be ashamed of yourself!
j/k.
I think every western traveler struggles with this issue when traveling in developed nations. But if I was you, I won't lose sleep over it. I always say "safety first" and if that's what it takes for you to have a peace of mind and be safe at night, so be it.
Safety should be even more important of an issue for a female traveling alone.
Enjoy the crib!
Sweeeet. I've just been staying in my brother's awesome house in Bangkok, and am totally in favor of the quality accommodations. There's no reason not to, any additional forex they can earn is valuable, and maintaining quality accommodations (where 'quality' is relative) makes people more inclined to visit. As long as you realize that other folks there aren't so lucky...
Plus Ime's safety point. He should know, he's such an easy target for street crims ;-)
honestly, caro, you have such a good perspective on the world, people based on your open mind and all your travels to 3rd world countries. You have an understanding for the gap b/w rich and poor and are sensitive to that. Because of your awareness, I think your decision to spend on the apt there does not make you a bad person, it makes you practical. You still have your sensitive, understanding side about the limitations most Moldovans experience and will respect others when they cant afford the same that you can, you obviously wont flaunt it. Instead of feeling guilty, I would be proud of the fact that you are able contribute to the city through your UNDP job. I would focus on the things that you can do to contribute to the place- through the people you touch and also through your pocketbook that will add to the economy of the place. I struggle with this all the time about whether being sensitive to these disparities means that we should feel guilty because of our "better off" position- like in India where small children are servants...is that child labor? shouldnt he be in school? if he wasnt there though, would he be living in a cardboard shack w/ no schooling AND no food. it is all relative, i guess....
ooh, that's tough. I think you've made your decision though, and it's fine. There really is no right answer...no prescriptive right thing to do, because you aren't really living there. You are a tourist. So, is spending your money the best way to contribute? Are you furthering some (probably fairly accurate) stereotype of American travellers. Yes on both counts! You obviously weighed all this and made the decision you felt best about.
In a way, isn't it more obnoxious when westerners try to be one with the people they are visiting? Travelling is completely problematic. Still, it's embarassing to be spending money in front of people who can't. It makes them feel bad about their circumstances and that is impolite.
I think your point about living in the US and living in apartments other Americans couldn't afford is very interesting.
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